Adejoké Bakare, AYALA Squaremeal Female Chef Series 2024

Adejoké Bakare

The annual reveal of new Michelin stars is one of the most anticipated events in the food world. While the awards are seen as a benchmark for culinary excellence, they have been criticized for being predictable, favoring British, French, and Modern European cuisines, and predominantly awarding male chefs.

This year, during the 2024 Michelin star announcement at The Midland Hotel in Manchester, a groundbreaking moment occurred when Michelin International Director Gwendal Poullennec surprised the audience by announcing Adejoké Bakare of Restaurant Chishuru as a Michelin star winner. Joké, as she is known, became the first black woman to win a Michelin star in the UK and only the second in the world, following Beninese chef Georgiana Viou’s win in 2023. The surprise had nothing to do with her talent but rather Michelin’s historical lack of recognition for West African cuisine.

Joké’s journey to this achievement is remarkable. Raised in Kaduna, Nigeria, by a Yoruba father and an Igbo mother, she grew up surrounded by diverse culinary traditions, which have greatly influenced her cooking. Joké fondly recalls watching her grandmother prepare traditional East Nigerian street foods, a passion that would shape her future. As the eldest sibling, she took on the responsibility of cooking for her family, absorbing recipes and techniques along the way.

Though Joké studied microbiology and moved to the UK in 1999, her love for cooking remained strong. She hosted dinner parties for friends, who encouraged her to pursue her passion professionally. In 2019, a turning point came when she entered a competition held by Brixton Village for amateur chefs. Joké won, earning a six-month residency to showcase her culinary skills.

Chishuru’s early days in Brixton were far from glamorous, with the restaurant battling difficult conditions. However, Joké’s cooking won over critics and diners alike, building a devoted following. Her food is characterized by warmth, generosity, and a blend of simplicity and complexity, drawing from West African flavors and her years in the UK. She skillfully recreates the tastes of home using local ingredients, creating her own version of West African cuisine.

In 2024, Chishuru moved to Fitzrovia, and Joké’s Michelin star has propelled her into the spotlight. Despite her new fame, she remains focused on her true passion: cooking. Her success has also made her a role model for other female West African chefs, who are inspired by her story and achievements. Joké recognizes the importance of this, stating that she feels a responsibility to represent West African cuisine and tell its story.

Joké Bakare’s Michelin star win is a significant milestone, breaking barriers and highlighting the rich culinary heritage of West Africa. Her story is one of perseverance, talent, and the power of food to bring people together.